Pruning reduces the number of growing points and, thereby, results in greater growth at the remaining points.

Pruning initiates a growth response at the location of a cut.

Pruning facilitates better penetration of sunlight and beneficial sprays.

At planting time to stimulate growth as soon as possible.

Annually. This can be done in the Fall, but to reduce the possibility of winter injury it is better to start in early Spring and have the orchard finished just before the leaves push out.

The eventual strength of the mature tree depends upon prudent pruning practices during the early formative years.

A fruit crop early in the life of a tree will open it out more effectively than a rigorous pruning program. Therefore: light pruning + early bearing will result in a spreading tree.

The central leader of dwarfed trees will be lost prematurely if allowed to fruit too soon.

Excessive pruning can over-stimulate growth which can lead to poor fruit colour, delayed fruit maturity, and an increase of suckers.

Unwanted succulents can increase the risk of fire blight, cankers, and winter injuries.

Trees have their own natural and appropriate response to wounds so resist the urge to cover large cuts with a “dressing” balm or sealant;

With most fruit trees, the pruning wound should be flush with the limb from which the unwanted branches are cut.

 Limbs that create a narrow “V” crotch angle with the main branch should be removed at the earliest opportunity.

 Limbs close together can create over-shading which can result in weak limbs that have low yields and inferior fruit.

Branches that hang down or grow upward are less desirable to keep than lateral (horizontal) branches.

Discard all large, branched, upright water sprouts (long vigorous shoots sprouting from the upper surface of limbs) which cause shade in the center and are not fruitful.

Unhealthy branches should always be removed.

Opening the center of the tree improves air circulation and fruit colour by allowing adequate sunlight penetration.

Discard all shoots shorter than 6” (15cm) because they have less leaves to support the growth of fruit.

The ideal fruiting shoot is 3/16” - 1/4” (5-6cm) thick at its base and 12” – 24” (30-60cm) long.

For the best fruit quality and yield, encourage only pure vegetative growth during the initial three years. You can prevent fruit growth for this period by removing the flower buds.

One year old trees:

-         should be pruned to 30" (80cm) - *cherries to 36" - 40" (90-100cm).

-         eliminate all branches below 2' (60cm).

-         eliminate all branches that have a similar thickness of the main leader.

-         make the cut close to a bud and as clean as possible to facilitate healing.

Three and four year old trees:

-         pruning should be minimal

-         concentrate mainly on thinning-out rather than cutting-back.

Apple and pear trees:

-         where fire blight could be a problem, pruning should be particularly light to leave more framework and secondary branches.

 Peach trees:

-         use a collar cut rather than a flush cut (the collar is the swollen area where the branch meets the limb).

Japanese plum, sour cherry, and peach trees only retain a dominant central leader for a short time. Eventually the central leader tree should have six to eight main scaffold branches spaced vertically and spirally around the trunk with the uppermost branch (leader) well in the lead of those below it.